The word “tabanco” is thought to derive from tabaco/estanco
meaning a wine and olive oil shop also selling tobacco, usually state run with
profits going to the crown. The term is peculiar to Jerez and not used elsewhere,
although similar establishments certainly exist all over the Marco de Jerez. Their
history dates back over four centuries, with the word “tabanco” first appearing
in municipal archives in 1592.
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| Tabanco el Pasaje as it was in the 1920s, Also known as La Fortuna |
They began more as wine shops often related to
a particular bodega, and some workers would meet here for a bracer before they
began their daily toil, and many would meet there afterwards as well. Various types of wine were
served straight from the rows of barrels. The floors were earthen and there
were bullfight posters everywhere along with notices saying “Hoy no se fía, mañana
si” meaning no credit today, only tomorrow (and tomorrow never comes), or “Prohibido
el cante” meaning no singing. Women were not allowed except to get the family
wine bottle filled, but had to use a side door or a window. Most were happy
enough with this as the tabancos could be quite rough.
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| Tabanco La Pandilla |
After decades of decline, the last fifteen
years or so have seen these wonderfully old fashioned bars enjoying a well-deserved
renaissance. No longer “spit and sawdust”, they not only allow singing but
actively promote flamenco, Sherry tastings and the culture of Jerez. High
quality food is available and while each tabanco has its own specialities, most
also serve the traditional dishes such as berza (vegetable stew with meat),
chicharrones (small marinated and spiced strips of pork) and papas aliñás (potato
with spring onion, parsley, oil and vinegar). Luckily this has attracted some
of the younger generation who see this as cool, and it will hopefully preserve
the Sherry drinking tradition as well as the historic character and atmosphere of Jerez itself.
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| Tabanco San Pablo Really good chicharrones... |
You will notice from the lists below how recently many were established, which is an encouraging sign, and while some
are a bit more modern in appearance, many look as if they have been there for a
century. In 2012 five tabancos got together and formed the association “Tabancora”
to promote both themselves and Sherry traditions, and drew up a leaflet with a route
map so people could follow it and try them out. They are all in the city
centre, so one can enjoy a “tabanco crawl” on foot! Tabancora has the support
of both the City Council and the Consejo Regulador, and the leaflet is
available from the latter and the tourist office in Plaza Arenal.
The following are members of Tabancora:
La Pandilla C/Los Valientes, 14 (long
established but closed for 20 years, reopened 2013)
El Pasaje C/Santa María, 8 (est. 1925)
El Guitarrón de San Pedro C/Bizcocheros, 16 (est. 2012)
Plateros Plaza Plateros C/Francos, 1 (est. 2011)
San Pablo C/San Pablo, 12 (est. 1934)
La Banderillas C/Caballeros, 12 (est. 2012)
The following are not currently in Tabancora
but well worth a visit:
La Vinoteca Jerezana C/Arcos, 4 (est.1947 - no kitchen
but good range of bottled Sherry)
Taberna La Sureña
C/Puerto, 7 (est. 1993)
Mariñíguez C/Mariñíguez,
20 (est. 2013)
El Tabankino
C/Idolos, 15 (est. 2014)
Cruz Vieja
C/Barja, 16 (est. 2014)
El Telescopio C/Ávila,
16 (est. 2013)
Tabanco Romate
C/Francos, 18 (originally est. 1997, converted 2012 by Romate)
