Oloroso Gobernador 20%, Emilio Hidalgo

Appearance
Attractive amber-mahogany through amber to a green tinged rim, legs.
Nose
Complex yet restrained, damp old barrels, bodega, quite savoury and serious, traces of pickled walnut, pasa, dry scrub, truffle, aldehydes, even a faint trace of iodine.
Palate
Full, savoury, traces Marmite, walnut, some roundness balancing a hint of tannin, quite meaty with a trace of the burnt edge of a steak, tangy, balsamic, interesting and long.
Comments
This lovely wine averages about 12 years old, not bad in itself, but some wine from this solera goes into the criaderas of their older Oloroso, Villapanes. Emilio Hidalgo is a hands on, family bodega, very traditional, and bent on producing really classic Sherry, which they certainly do.
Price
A rather expensive £21 from Harvey Nichols. UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene