Bodegas: Tradicion

Bodegas Tradicion is at once very old and very new. The project is funded by three wealthy men, all with Sherry history coursing through their veins. One is construction magnate Joaquin Rivero Valcarce, a Sherry aficionado, whose family has a 350 year history of winegrowing in Jerez. He comes from the family of Bodegas JM Rivero, established around 1650. Another is Ignacio Lopez de Carrizosa y Domecq, whose family established bodegas Marques del Merito. Then there is Javier Domecq, whose surname you may have heard of.

In 1998 they bought a picturesque but derelict XIX century bodega from Fernando Carrasco Sagastizabal. It has links with the oldest of Sherry brands "CZ" (Cabeza de Aranda y Zarco - the old Rivero family business), and with the help of local experts, managed to buy old soleras, some from the now lost firm of Agustin Blazquez, latterly owned by Domecq (XVIII C Oloroso and Palo Cortado), and more old XIX C butts from Gilbeys /Croft (Oloroso, Amontillado, Palo Cortado), XIX C Osborne, Bobadilla, Delgado Zuleta (Amontillado), Paternina, XIX C Sandeman, and Harveys (PX) from which they assembled soleras. Wines of about 15 years of age are bought in to feed these soleras

Rivero took on Lorenzo Garcia-Iglesias as director, and Jose Blandino who once worked at Domecq before joining Tradicion as capataz. The first wines were released in 2003, all VOS (min. 20 years old) and VORS (min. 30 years old), which is unusual, especially as the bodega made no fino at first, though they produce an outstanding one now. Releases are very small, amounting to only about 20,000 bottles annually, 80% for export, and the bottling with driven corks and wax seals, labelling and individual numbering is done by hand. (If you think about it, 20,000 bottles a year is not likely to make a huge profit). The bodega has about 1,000 butts, and the scales are run using only the traditional hand tools, at least for the last couple of rocios. Filtration is kept to a minimum, and the wines are as natural as possible, all in the name of keeping everything as traditional as possible.

There are also a few butts of vintage (Anada) Sherry, which were bought from Croft: 1970, 1975, 1982, 1987, 1991 for example.  These wines must be sealed with ribbon and wax, and can only be bottled under the supervision of the Consejo Regulador. Naturally they are very expensive and very rare. (See post on Vintage Sherry)

As if all this wasn't enough, the bodega has another attraction, namely the Rivero family art collection housed here, which was added in 2002. It contains some 300 fabulous works of Spanish Art from the XV to the XIX century, and is a very important collection, with works by Velazquez, El Greco, Goya... There is an exhibition of XIX century photographs which recount the wine history of the city. Classical music concerts are held here from time to time, and the bodega is actively involved in marrying the wines with food.

A wonderful brandy is also produced here. It is made from old soleras from bodegas now gone, and the new spirit is distilled in copper pot stills to a maximum of 70% vol. This is known as "Holandas". No column stills here! As to the wines, there are not very many, but they are outstanding. The firm supplies Fortnum & Mason's own brand Sherry.

The firm's brands are:
Amontillado VORS (43 years old, 3,000 botts annually)
Palo Cortado VORS (32 years old, 2,500 botts)
Oloroso VORS (45 years old, 5,000 botts.)
PX VOS (over 22 years old, 1500 botts))
Fino (bottled en rama at about 12 years old, only 3,000 botts) Introduced quite recently.
There are/were also some Anadas (vintage wines): Olorosos and Palos Cortados from 1970, 1975, 1982 and maybe a 1985, 1987, 1981, 1998

Address: Calle Cordobeses, 3, 11408 Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz
Tel: (+34) 956 168 628
Web: bodegas tradicion.com
Visits: Yes, but make an appointment. A really good visit.