30.11.17 New Saca of Goya XL; Sherry Casks Big Business

This is only the 4th saca of this superb Manzanilla which is not released regularly but only when conditions are exceptional, and then only from very few carefully selected butts. It comes from the family reserve Manzanilla solera which was located in an old underground bodega called La Casa near Sanlúcar’s Bajo de Guia. When the firm relocated to the new bodega on the Chipiona road in 1989, the solera had to be moved and all the old butts were repaired, stave by stave, so it took a while for the wine to settle, but it soon returned to its former glory. It is a Manzanilla pasada with an average age of over 10 years, bottled en rama and in very limited quantities.

The multi million euro business of seasoning Sherry butts for the distilling industry is steaming ahead according to figures presented to the latest meeting of the Consejo Regulador. Since the Consejo established a voluntary certification system in 2015, some 50,000 butts have been seasoned officially, mainly for Whisky and Rum distillers. The Consejo has long been worried that many “Sherry casks” were seasoned elsewhere, illicitly using terms which are protected by the Sherry Denominación de Origen. Currently some 65,000 butts are being seasoned under Consejo supervision.

The Consejo issues traceability cards for those butts which have been seasoned by one of the 12 firms which have registered for the scheme. Each card, which is stapled to the butt, is printed with a QR code which contains information like the name of the cooperage, the type of oak, the type of wine used for the seasoning and the period of seasoning. The minimum period is one year, but the average is more like three years. Spirits aged in butts without the card cannot use protected terms such as “Sherry cask”, Manzanilla, Fino, Oloroso, Amontillado or Pedro Ximénez on their labels. A certain prestige is, of course, attached to labels bearing the words “Sherry cask”.

21.12.16 Delgado Zuleta Release 2nd Saca of Entusiástico

Entusiástico is the first ever organic Manzanilla and has now spent three years under flor in its little solera in Sanlúcar consisting of butts previously used for Manzanilla La Goya. Both the wine and the fortifying alcohol are certified organic and the final product is bottled en rama. The grapes came from a one hectare plot in the Pago Burujena, owned and worked by Pepe Cabral, one of the founder members of Mostolé, a group of growers who produce small quantities of organic wine from their own vineyards.

According to José Federico Carvajal, commercial director of Delgado Zuleta, the wine is developing nicely and taking on some of the house style with more floral and yeasty notes yet retaining  a certain fruitiness as well, giving it freshness. The presentation has changed for this second saca with a new label illustrating a girl with flowers strolling in the countryside. Only 1,200 bottles have been released, so it will be hard to obtain, especially as DZ have received many pre-orders, but it can be purchased from the bodega and certain restaurants and shops in the Sanlúcar area.

Grupo Mostolé – Organic Producers

Founded by José (Pepe) Cabral, this is a group of seven growers formed in 2013 with a total between them of 20 hectares of organic grapes, mostly Palomino, between Trebujena and Jerez. These grapes are allowed for DO Jerez being grown within the official production zone and indeed used to be sold to bodegas, but they are now used to make upmarket young table wines or “mostos” – which the group would like to see as a DO unaged Sherry.  

The Andalucian Organic Certification Seal

Pepe was inspired by the idea of Beaujolais Nouveau, red wine released young and fresh amid lots of media attention. It saves the producers money as the wine is sold as soon as it is ready, avoiding the expenses of ageing. Now these mostos are growing in popularity; most bars offer one, often with a typical stew such as “ajo caliente” (tomato, garlic, bread, oil) and there are even tasting routes and competitions. The mostos are the earliest wines to be released in Europe. The name Mostolé derives from “mosto” (newly fermented wine) and “olé” (hooray!) and expresses their enthusiasm for it.

Most of the Mostolé crop was bought by the cooperative AECOVI Jerez to make the first ever organic Sherry but unfortunately AECOVI went bust in early 2015 and the Sherry dream was never realised. The coop did however produce a couple of vintages of the group’s table wines bottled en rama: Riachero from Palomino grapes grown by José Fernández Aguilar, and Entusiástico made by Pepe Cabral since 2009, a Palomino which includes about 10% percent of the once widely planted Mantua Castellano grape. Grapes from his vineyard were made into the first organic Manzanilla – Manzanilla Entusiástica – by Delgado Zuleta and launched in 2015.

L-R: Salvador Real, Jorge Pascual and Pepe Cabral launching the Manzanilla (foto:cosasdecome)

Pepe is keen to recuperate old grape varieties which, despite their quality are not now permitted, varieties like Mantua Castellano and the Alarije Dorada, which he would field graft. He says that there were no fewer than 52 varieties growing in the Trebujena area in the XVIII century. His plan is to encourage lots of growers to follow his example and recover the diversity of grapes in the area, make their own quality, ideally organic, wine with its own character and create a revolution with wine made with respect for the vineyard, and with all this achieved, they might make some money.

The group has its own awards ceremony in which a “chambra de crudillo” (a hardwearing jacket typically worn by wine growers in the XVIII century) is awarded to the “enthusiast of the year”. For the time being these wines can only be consumed locally due to their limited production, but they merit a visit in themselves. Too many visitors to the area confine themselves to the big bodegas in Jerez and miss out on all the interesting things happening elsewhere in the area. Get yourself here in November and enjoy a whole new experience!

Manzanilla Ecologica Entusiastica 15%, Delgado Zuleta

Appearance

Deepish for a young Manzanilla, mid strawy gold, brassy highlights and light legs.

Nose

Unusual but attractive, an interesting mix of flor and fruit with elements of dried fruit such as apricot and a slight butteriness. Naturally being a new solera it lacks some of the complexity that would impart, but there is plenty of the briny doughy character and a certain salinity. It is a bit like mosto aged under healthy flor. It is really interesting.

Palate

A slight cider note gives way to flor bitterness then that hint of fruit kicks in. I think the fruit might come from the Mantua Castellano grape, a traditional variety which might unofficially be in the wine. It is quite intense and rounded in the mouth then gets drier towards the end. For a young wine it has amazing character and I can't wait to see how it develops in the years to come.

Comments
This is the first organic Manzanilla on the market, and was released on the 9th October. It is suitable for vegetarians and vegans alike. The project goes back to 2011 when Pepe Cabral, a grower of ecological Palomino grapes and co-founder of Mostelé, a group of organic growers, decided it was time there was an organic Manzanilla. Previously he had been working with the cooperative AECOVI Jerez but they went bust. 

The paperwork was double the usual, what with the Consejo and the Organic certification which comes from both the EU and Andalucian bodies. He approached Jorge Pascual the director of Delgado Zuleta, who was very interested. After the 2012 harvest 1,000 litres of must from 1 hectare Pepe owns in the Pago Burujena near Jerez were put into two specially prepared ex La Goya butts in the DZ bodega Don Rafael. The must was fortified with organic spirit and left to age, and as the 2013 and 2014 musts arrived a tiny solera was forming. 2 sacas are envisaged each year. It wasn't easy for a big bodega to make such a small quantity, and this might well have some influence on the character.

In October 2015 a very small saca was made (1,100 bottles)with a view to launching the wine and finding out what the public thought of it. While the wine is made exactly the same way as all Manzanilla - albeit with organic grapes - the presentation is very innovative. The en rama wine had a deep colour for its age so a clear glass bottle was chosen to highlight it and it has a driven organic cork. The label is from a painting by the Russian artist Igor Andreiev. The packaging was all done by Pepe Cabral. The successful launch took place at DZ with the new wine being presented by its makers: Pepe Cabral, Jorge Pascual and Salvador Real, the DZ oenologist. I hope and believe this will be just the first of many organic Sherries.

Price

18.15 Euros. Only available in Sanlúcar as far as I know.

5.11.13 GastroCadiz; Cycle Round Bodegas and Vineyads

The first ever “GastroCadiz”took place yesterday, an event celebrating the cuisine of the province of Cadiz, and it took place at Bodegas Delgado Zuleta in Sanlucar. The well-known TV chef Dani Martinez and Bodegas Delgado Zuleta are the main promoters of the initiative which is also supported by the Consejo Regulador, whose director, Cesar Saldaña, had the job of marrying fine Sherries to the food prepared by various leading chefs.

Cadiz is blessed with great seafood, agriculture and meat, not to mention great wines, putting the province firmly on the gastronomic map. The chefs came up with some amazing dishes using only local produce, and Cesar Saldaña married it all perfectly with Sherry. This sort of initiative is surely an excellent way forward for both food and wine exports.

Another event for the European Wine Tourism day is the V Jerez Wine Tourism Cycling Route. For 5 Euros, one can sign up and start at Bodegas Lustau, where a tour is organised, and cycle out to the countryside where a meal and some Sherry awaits the weary pedallers at the Cortijo de Ducha, courtesy of the Consejo. Entries are open until Sunday, and already at least 50 have been received. It is a great family day out for little expense.

9.6.13 First Organic Manzanilla

The finished product will be a while in coming, but an agreement has been signed between bodegas Delgado Zuleta and Jose Cabral, grower and winemaker in the Sanlucar area, to produce an organic Manzanilla. Jose Cabral will produce the grapes and make the initial wine, fortify it, and send it for ageing to Delgado Zuleta.

These are times of innovation, and new ideas are coming to market, yet still within the rules of production. Recently, Delgado Zuleta surprised the market with the launch of Goya XL, a Manzanilla “reposada” – or pasada – and bottled en rama. It impressed experts who already know the bodega’s long history (established 1744).

The idea with the new wine is to go further, to the grapes and vineyards themselves, where Jose Cabral is cultivating his grapes to the strictest ecological regulations, certified by the relevant authorities. The must from the grapes is very carefully fermented at the Cooperativa Catolica Agricola and taken to Delgado Zuleta bodegas where it is filled into butts, carefully selected by the bodega’s enologist, Manuel Barba, and placed in an ideal area for its crianza (ageing).

The Consejo Regulador is already involved in the project, along with the food and agriculture laboratory which will monitor progress. The plan is to create a new scale every year for the initial solera and eventually run the scales in a way which will produce the correct development of the flor to produce the final product – the organic Manzanilla.

The project started off with only a couple of butts, but is developing and will be constantly monitored by all the parties involved, who will also analyse the opportunities for the wine in markets where the adjective “organic” is highly valued. There is no doubt there is a market for these wines and there is plenty of scope.  The En Rama concept has helped to reawaken consumer interest in Sherry, and the new organic Manzanilla will surely add to it.

8.6.13 Vinoble; Manzanilla Cocktail Competition; Fedejerez

Vinoble, the biennial exhibition of sweet and fortified wines is to be held once again in Jerez next year, as previously reported. The dates have now been decided, and they are the 1,2,3 of June. As usual, this fantastic event will take place at the Alcazar in Jerez.

(Imagen MasJerez)

 Bodegas Delgado Zuleta, in collaboration with the Hotel School IES El Picacho and the local tourism authority, hosted the 3^rd Manzanilla-based cocktail competition on Thursday, timed to coincide with the Feria de la Manzanilla. The competition was open to students and professionals alike, and 25 people entered. The winning cocktail was a Sing de Sierra, by Daniel Campon.

Fedejerez yesterday reiterated its desire to “resolve the (Fino/Manzanilla) problem, not shelve it”. The Junta felt that postponing the matter, at least while Europe was dealing with other aspects of the modifications to the Reglamento, would allow time for reconciliation. However the president of Fedejerez, Evaristo Babe, wants to press ahead, “in the interests of both DO’s: Sherry and Manzanilla”, and feels that there is some cordiality between the two. Miguel Perez, of Coag and the Coop Virgen de la Caridad in Sanlucar said it would suit all concerned to get on with the dialogue and put the matter to rest. The Junta does not really want to get too deeply involved, especially in the core question as to whether Fino can still be aged in Sanlucar. They would prefer to wait to see what Brussels says and not create any more problems.

Amontillado Goyesco 17.5%, B Rodriguez de la Cave (Delgado Zuleta)

Appearance
Pale golden amber with old gold glints, legs.
Nose
On the cusp between Manzanilla and Amontillado; still lots of Manzanilla notes like the maritime flor bitterness and a trace of autolysis mingling with the oxidative and slightly sweet, nutty notes of Amontillado. This is what the wine smells like when the flor dies off and the air gets in, but before it has oxidised much.
Palate
Fresh young Amontillado: hazelnut, implicit glycerol sweetness, a trace of membrillo (quince jelly) but still retaining Manzanilla freshness and some of its lightness. Dry, well rounded, elegant and long. It really shows how Sherries develop.
Comments
Delgado Zuleta are proud of this wine, and rightly so. It won a Silver at the IWSC. In the past, it would have been called a Manzanilla Amontillada, but the Consejo felt that such terminology confused the consumer, and it was banned, so now only one or other term may be used - in this case Amontillado. And yet this wine has actually spent longer under flor (5 years) than it has under oxidation (3 years). Whatever, it is a lovely and hard-to-find style of wine, a little less strong and lighter than a full Amontillado, and perfect for people who are new to Sherry or, of course with food, with which this is very versatile.
Price
£11.75 at Drinkmonger, Edinburgh. (UK importer Bibendum).

Manzanilla Pasada Barbiana 15%, Rodriguez La-Cave (Delgado Zuleta)

Appearance
Clean mid strawy gold with burnished tints, legs.
Nose
Full and very complex, toast, oily nutty notes, slightly bitter, yeasty, hints of autolysis, dough and a slight trace of oxidation, hints of cereal, even beer. Most attractive and interesting.
Palate
Similar, pungent, very slightly oily feel, the complex bitter and autolytic flavours along with the trace oxidation give an impression of age beyond its 5-6 years, very long, lovely.
Comments
A beautiful Manzanilla Pasada - the ultimate expression of Manzanilla, exquisitely complex and subtle. This comes from the Rodriguez La-Cave soleras.
Price
An almost ridiculously inexpensive 6 euros ex bodega.

PX Monteagudo 17.5%, Delgado Zuleta

Appearance
Very deep burnt siena walnut through yellowy amber to yellow and slightest trace of green at the rim, very viscous.
Nose
Concentrated raisin, fig, date, slightly burned toast, damp barrels, with traces of coffee, treacle and sunbunred grapeskins, quite serious.
Palate
Intensely sweet yet tangy and raisiny at first with quite low tannin, then the phenolic side kicks in with overdone toast, a certain balancing bitterness and coffee. Luscious texture with an extremely long raisiny yet dryish finish, lovely.
Comments
From a very old solera once belonging to the Conde de Monteagudo, the wine tastes older than its 10-12 years of solera age.
Price
I paid 5.54 euros at the bodega for a half bottle, so excellent value. It is imported into the UK by Borough Wines.

Back from Jerez

As many will have noticed from the odd recent post, I've been back for a couple of weeks, but have been up to the eyes with work and dealing with ancient relatives. Here, however is a brief report on the trip.

My first bodega visit was to Delgado Zuleta in Sanlucar. Pelayo Garcia, the export manager, kindly showed me round the installations in the upper part of the town on the Avenida Rocio Jurado. These bodegas are quite new and make life a lot simpler than having the 12 different addresses they had before.

New Delgado Zuleta bodegas

Before choosing the site, however much research was done into its humidity and atmosphere to ensure the optimum ageing of the wines.There are always doubters when a firm decides to move its soleras, but the move seems to have not only done no harm, but if anything actually improved them. Certainly the wines I tasted were all excellent. The new bodega has lots of up-to-date equipment, but it is used judiciously according to the needs of the individual wine.

While in Sanlucar, I stopped in at what's now the Lustau Manzanilla bodega (formerly Domecq) for a bottle of Macarena. My visit was much quicker than I'd hoped, as the Policia Local were about to tow away the car for being parked on one of the new Carriles Bici (cycle lanes). Phew! And when I got the Macarena home it was oxidised. So I suppose the Police won in the end!

Manzanilla La Goya being perfected

Back in Jerez the new blue buses were out on the streets. These were bought second-hand from Madrid as Jerez couldn't afford new buses. It can't afford much at all these days. There is a slight air of depression what with terrible unemployment (last year 3000 Jerezanos lost their jobs). There are many closed shops, even bodegas, some of which are now superstores. The Gallo Azul is closed too. What with not being able to reach agreement with the building's owners and the effects of the crisis, Juan Carlos Carrasco has decided to close and concentrate on other restaurants he owns. Hopefully the closure will only be temporary, till another restaurateur can be found to re-open the emblematic bar.

I went to see bodegas Emilio Hidalgo, and spent some time with Fernando Hidalgo discussing our favourite topic! These bodegas still occupy their original site, Calle Clavel, close to Lustau and Harveys, and very little has changed over the years. What an atmospheric bodega! It is still a family business, and is dedicated to "proper" Sherry. If you have once tasted Fino Panesa, you will see how serious they are. I can't quite decide if it is fortunate or unfortunate, but many of their wines are released in tiny quantities. It is delightful to see a firm which is content to make a decent living making excellent Sherry, and which is not bent on expansion. If you are in Jerez, this is a bodega well worth a visit - but remember to make prior arrangements. It is situated near three good restaurants: Carbona, El Patio and La Posada.

Here's a picture of the amazing Manuel Simon de la Riva roundabout in Jerez with a massive venencia pouring water into a Sherry copita.

Unfortunately, my time was limited, so I had to return to Malaga - clutching a few bottles naturally! - to see my friends and family. Even among the excellent wines from Malaga, I came across one or two interesting Sherries, and these will appear soon in the tasting section of the blog.

Sweet Old Oloroso "Las Senoras" 18%, Delgado Zuleta

Appearance
Quite deep old blacky browny amber with reddy/coppery tints, fading through amber to yellow rim, legs.
Nose
Assertive, full and quite sweet mainly Oloroso and PX but a hint of grapey Moscatel, hints of toffee, molasses and the slightest trace of orange and a slight savoury note, complex and refined.
Palate
Sweet, but not excessively so, the most obvious thing is flavour and depth, not too grippy, deep raisin and fig notes along with Oloroso, long and very clean finish, no cloying. Well put together.
Comments
This wine was originally blended for the ladies of the house, and no wonder they liked it. It is a touch less sweet than a cream, and less sweetness tends to mean more flavour. The wine is around 10-12 years old, and contains Oloroso, PX, Moscatel and a touch of Amontillado.

Price

10.00 Euros from the Bodega. Available UK from Borough Wines, London - and hopefully soon at Drinkmonger in Edinburgh.

Manzanilla La Goya 15%, Delgado Zuleta

Appearance

Bright strawy gold, light legs.

Nose 

Moderately intense and marine with hints of salinity, flor and dried flowers with a trace of bitter almond and cabezuela showing through. A classic Manzanilla nose with a trace of wildness, but just on the elegant side of that.

Palate

Fairly intensely flavoured, dry with that delightful bitterness from the yeast, hints of nuts and traces of butter from the autolysis giving it depth, and a moderate acidity giving it zing and length. This is thoroughbred Manzanilla and has a strong capacity to make you want more.

Comments

Named after a famous singer, Aurorita Jaufre, nicknamed La Goya, and who loved this wine, the brand name goes back to 1918 when she gave permission for her name to be used. The wine, which is aged through 7 "clases" or scales is at least 6 years old, about enough to call itself Manzanilla Pasada, and certainly showing signs of intent. In fact in Spain it is labelled "Manzanilla Pasada" but just "Manzanilla"  for the export markets. Delgado Zuleta is the oldest firm in Sanlucar still trading, going back to 1744. La Goya was the Sherry served to their Royal Highnesses Prince Felipe and Princess Letizia of Asturias on the occasion of their wedding banquet on the 22nd May 2004. They are now, of course King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia of Spain. In 2018, to celebrate the centenary of the brand, a smart new label was introduced.

Price

£7.00 (half bottle) from Vino, Edinburgh. Whole range available at Borough Wines, London.

Manzanilla Barbiana 15%, Delgado Zuleta

Appearance
Pale strawy gold, slight trace green, very light legs.
Nose
Attractive coastal nose full of sea breezes, soft, plump and yeasty, if not over saline, but a hint of green almond bitterness lifts it. Fresh and zippy.
Palate
Fuller, quite solid, lots of flor, tangy, hints of green almond, yeasty, complex and quite subtle, growing on you all the time, a real Sanluquena!
Comments
The label bears the interesting legend "Procedente de las criaderas de Barbiana", B Rodriguez La-Cave. The wine is aged 3-4 years and tastes jolly good for its youth -it has character. presumably the soleras came from Rodriguez La-Cave when DZ bought the company.

Price

6 Euros in Jerez

News from Sanlucar 4.6.12

The season is getting under way in Sanlucar. Manzanilla Day (which actually runs from the 1st of June till the 26th) is sponsored by the local council, and the exciting agenda has already been announced.

On Friday 1st June, the Mayoress of Sanlucar, Irene Garcia Macias, together with councillors, the directriz of "Sanlucar...descubretela" (a local tourism organisation) and the director of administration of Bodegas Delgado Zuleta inaugurated the first "Centre for the Interpretation of Wine" in the Sherry area at Bodegas Delgado Zuleta. The purpose of the new Centre is to pass on the cultural heritage of Sanlucar wine, while trying to reduce the seasonality of tourism and offer more than just bodega visits. Tourists will be able to follow the entire production process from vineyard to glass in one place, including tasting, and will leave full of knowledge of, and enthusiasm for, the wines of Sanlucar and Sherry in general.

The president of the Society of Horse Racing of Sanlucar, Rafael Hidalgo, has negotiated with the Council for races to take place between the 12th and 29th of June on the beach, as has been customary now for 167 years.

The Ruta de la Manzanilla y el Tapeo de sanlucar is up and running with 30 central bars offering a tapa and a glass of Manzanilla for 2,50 euros. Well worth a little "pub crawl"!

Furthermore, there are conferences, bodega visits, tastings, trips round vineyard areas, dinners and Heaven knows what else! All the main bodegas are involved, so if you can get there this month, it is not to be missed!

Useful info:
www.sanlucardebarrameda.es (Town Council)
www.isanlucar.es (Local News)

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Amontillado Viejo Quo Vadis? 18.5%, Delgado Zuleta

Appearance 
Attractive bright amber with reddy copper tints.
Nose 
Classic amontillado; intensely aromatic, fresh and complex, all the usual hazelnuts but with less usual spicy traces of clove hazelnut and nutmeg. Well-honed saline flor notes still persist, and only this complexity gives away its age.
Palate 
Dry, tangy and quite full yet supremely elegant despite phenolic traces from the wood, very fresh and incredibly long and complex.
Comments 
For a wine of well over 40 years solera age (Carbon 14 tests show it is 48), Quo Vadis is amazingly fresh and youthful but at the same time very complex. Quite delicious and a "must try". The label gives the name Rodriguez- Lacave, a bodega which merged with Delgado Zuleta in 1978, and whose very traditional labels were still used until recently. This wine has an interesting story. It started out with Miraflores grapes which were fermented into Manzanilla in barrel, which was not unusual, but the barrels were new, which was unusual. As a result, the bodega could not sell the wine and it was stored at the Rodriguez house for many years, naturally becoming an Amontillado. It is now one of the best wines in Sanlucar.

Price
Around £48