Showing posts with label Cadiz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cadiz. Show all posts

Monday, 24 April 2017

Mahara 2014 12.5%, Bodega Vinifícate

Appearance
Dense black cherry with a reddy-pink rim, legs.
Nose
Most attractive mix of very ripe yet fresh bramble and plum. There is a trace of background minerality and bitterness, true to the grape, and perhaps a balsamic note but very little oak, so presumably it had seen a few vintages, but the wine itself shines through, without need of adornment, with its powerful black fruit.
Palate
Big, ripe and well structured yet the tannins are good and ripe. There is a lovely glyceric plumpness about it and a certain rustic (in the very best sense of the word) charm. There is plenty of very slightly tight tangy black fruit and a slightly mineral texture, and a long clean finish. You have the effect of the oak without the flavour of the oak. Very good wine with character.
Comments
This is a very friendly, warm-hearted wine whose name translates as “nuts” or “crazy”. It is made by the brothers José and Miguel Gómez Lucas whose plan is to make reds from grapes indigenous to Cádiz so the wines really express their origin. Their friends thought they were nuts to start making wine in 2011 during the economic crisis, hence the name. But they had travelled and studied wine making in other countries and knew what they were doing. As proof, this wine was awarded 92 Parker points.

Mahara is 100% Tintilla, being the only indigenous red grape available in any quantity, as the other varieties are still being recuperated after phylloxera all but wiped them out,( but they do make a second wine, Amorro, which is 50/50 Tintilla and Tempranillo). The Tintilla comes from the Calderín del Obispo vineyard in the pago Balbaína where the soil is pure albariza.

Vinification, which is done in San Fernando, is totally artisan. They tread the grapes and use natural local yeasts, leaving the stems in for fermentation, which takes place in PVC tanks. The wine was aged for seven months, half in both French oak barricas and tinajas and the other half remaining in the PVC tanks. It was bottled unfiltered. However deserving, the wine has no DO. It is sealed with a driven cork and wax capsule.
Price
18.95 euros from Licores Corredera


Tuesday, 11 September 2012

Bodegas: Lacave y Cia.


The firm was established in Cadiz in 1810 by Pedro Lacave, born in the Department of Lower Pyrenees in France in 1776. He left France due to food shortages in 1791 and went to Cadiz. His maternal uncle had a shop there and he worked there as an assistant  Later he worked in his cousin’s shipping business until he decided to start up on his own. He took on as a partner, one Mr McDermont and registered the business under the title “Lacave y Cia.” He married in 1821 a Jerez girl, Ana Maria Lacoste Salazar, but they had no children. After  Mcdermont’s death in 1824, Lacave carried on alone until 1832, when he took on another partner, his fellow countryman Pablo Echecopar, forming the house of Lacave & Echecopar.

Some years later, Lacave brought his three nephews to join the business and this proved to be a powerful influence on its prosperity, developing into banking, bodegas and industry. Lacave ships travelled everywhere freely, transporting Spanish goods direct to the markets avoiding the London monopoly on certain goods, especially Sherry. A quay was built at La Segunda Aguada on the outskirts of Cadiz on land purchased in 1849 for the storage of timber imported from Northern Europe for their own use and for selling to the cooperages of the Sherry country. This storage grew to occupy 90,000 square metres.

In 1848 Juan Pedro, delegated to Sevilla founded the company JP Lacave & Cia specialising in cereals, oil and cork. Meanwhile Pedro dedicated himself to the wine side of the business while the other partners looked after other aspects of the business, especially banking. Notable among these industrial firms were Los Amigos, a woollen cloth manufacturer in Sevilla and La Cartuja which manufactured porcelain and floor tiles. Pedro Lacave died in 1850, leaving his fortune to his nephews. Wine exports had progressed so well that the firm decided to drop other business and dedicate itself to wine. In 1870 the original company name Lacave & Cia. was re-adopted, and the firm even had installed its own railway for the transport of wine from the bodegas, not to mention a Civil Guard barracks!

These bodegas consisted of two large warehouses divided by pillars in which were to be found large stacks of cases, long rows of barrels and a bottle store. There were also offices, a tasting and sample room and a tool store where barrels were branded and labels applied. The dispatch warehouses gave onto the quayside, and in La Segunda Aguada there was a large area for washing barrels, equipped with all imaginable machinery for the manufacture of barrel hoops, wires and staples to secure the cased goods. There was a mechanised sawmill where around a hundred people worked. Except for the peace of the bodegas, all was noise and bustle.  On the quayside there was a huge mast for signalling to ships, and various cranes. There was also a bottling shop, two gas engines and three steam engines with two large boilers, They even had telephones a while before most citizens were able to have them.

Of the numerous wines they exported round the world, the most in demand – especially in France - was the golden sweet wine. Another equally successful style was the “Madeira” from Jerez and Malaga. The bodegas’ proximity to the sea added to the quality of their wines. Having owned vineyards, the firm decided it was more convenient to buy in grapes or must, but with the exception of Moscatel and Tintilla de Rota, where their property extended to over 5,000 m2. The buildings there formed a rectangle consisting of offices, living quarters for the vineyard manager and three large bodegas where the wine was produced.

The firm had incredible vitality. In 1811 they produced 35 hectolitres, and in 1896 they produced 19,375 hectolitres. Their top market was France, followed by the United States and Sweden – where such was their domination of the market that people would ask for a “Lacave” rather than a Sherry. But all good things come to an end and the company was taken over by Rumasa in 1978 with the soeras taken to Williams & Humbert. Where the  majestic Lacave bodegas once stood, blocks of housing now stand – in the barriada (district) Lacave!



Friday, 15 June 2012

News from Jerez 15.6.12

To commemorate  the bicentenary of the 1812 Constitution of Cadiz , "la Pepa", the Consejo Regulador, the provincial government and the consortium for the commemoration of La Pepa have released a limited edition of Sherries labelled with a reproduction of a picture of the Cadiz countryside from the original printing of the Constitution.
There are five wines: Fino, Oloroso, Manzanilla, Cream and PX, and only 1000 bottles of each. They were specially selected by five of the region's most representative bodegas: Luis Caballero, Delgado and Zuleta, Barbadillo, Williams and Humbert and Lustau. Unfortunately, the wines will only be available to public institutions or local ones linked to La Pepa celebrations, or bodegas.



Two further embargoes have been placed on the assets of Jose Maria Ruiz Mateos and his family, this time 99 million Euros for Bodegas Garvey and 6 million Euros for Union de Grandes Bodegas, a distribution firm.