Fino Reguera 15%, Bodegas Velez

Appearance

Pale to medium strawy gold with bright golden highlights.

Nose

The very last vestiges of fruit are nicely balanced with the gently bitter almondiness and yeastiness of the flor and a certain very slightly dank humidity. The wine is very fresh and lively with faint herbal and maritime airs, and while reasonably young, is perfect as it is - though it would be very interesting to see an older version of it.

Palate

This is a very good Fino - production zone or not - acidity is spot on and it is super clean with an attractive light finesse. It is not all bitter acetaldehyde and is nicely balanced between those last remnants of fruit and gentle flor giving a serious wine but with charm, elegance and length.

Comments

This delicious Fino comes from 100% Palomino grapes grown on albariza soil in Chiclana, which is in the Production Zone. The Reguera solera is located in a part of the bodega Pieza Nueva called the Andana Húmeda (or damp row of butts -  ideal for Fino). The solera dates back to 1891 thus having considerable complexity. While they sell a younger Fino Velez, this is their best one with around 4½ years of ageing under flor. Interestingly Bodegas Velez, founded in 1857, also seasons casks for the award-winning Taiwanese whisky distiller Kavalan.

Price

5.90 euros, Licores Corredera

Amontillado Solera 1891 18%, Bodegas Velez

Appearance

Medium depth mahogany fading to amber with copper highlights.

Nose

Forthcoming and attractive with lots of toasted almonds and hazelnuts along with hints of that wonderful smell that bodegas have and traces of pipe tobacco and autumn leaves. There is also that fleeting background note of sweetness which gives Amontillados their charm.

Palate

Nicely rounded with hints of garrapiñadas (almonds tossed in caramel), tobacco, toasted almond and hazelnut praline, all of which are on the sweet side, yet it is not sweet, though there is enough glycerine to make it very smooth which balances nicely with some volatile acidity and a faint salty tang. Tasty, long and characterful, and amazing value for money.

Comments

Established in 1857 in Chiclana, this bodega is little known outside its home turf which is a real shame as the wines are very good. Being in the Production Zone, they can´t sell the wine as Sherry, but they can to sell it bodegas in the "triangle" who can, and they are doing good business with cask seasoning, and of course local sales. Things could change for the better however if the Production and Ageing zones are merged, which is under consideration. This wine ages in the unusually low bodega Don Alfredo, named in honour of a long serving capataz, Alfredo Cieza Ruiz.

Price
6.30 euros, Licores Corredera

Palo Cortado 18%, Bodegas Velez

Appearance

Deepish amber with old gold highlights.

Nose

Forthcoming with savoury and slightly saline aromas of toasted nuts, tobacco and dead autumn leaves. There is little sign of the wine having had flor, and it is more on the Oloroso side of things. It is fairly young and at an attractive stage of development with subtle hints of finesse to come.

Palate

Quite full at first but gets lighter and really quite elegant and beautifully rounded as it opens out on the palate thanks to some some glycerine which gives an early impression of sweetness, but which gradually seems to disappear leaving an attractive dry, light, slightly saline finish, and there is virtually no tannin. It has a fair bit of charm and is dangerously easy to drink.

Comments

Bodegas Velez were established in 1857 in Chiclana which is in the Production Zone and truly deserve to be better known. Naturally they have old soleras, and they produce some excellent wines, and this Palo Cortado is one of them. It comes from a solera established in 1891 and interestingly the wine is a selection from butts in the Amontillado solera which have developed more Oloroso-like characteristics as the wine ages.

Price

9.50, De Albariza