Manzanilla Pipiola 15%, Bodegas M Sánchez Ayala

Appearance

Fairly pale almost lemony gold with bright golden highlights.

Nose

Forthcoming and aromatic with classic Manzanilla notes of camomile and salty sea air. There are also slightly floral and gently fruity hints of apple with background notes of briny salinity, minerality, yeast and scrub, but overall it has an air of super freshness and charm.

Palate

There is a very fine balance here between the very gentle bitterness of the flor and the slightly fruity, floral side, so they all have a chance to shine. The level of acidity is spot on and accentuates the freshness and the finish is as clean as a whistle, leaving lingering sensations of camomile, bread and olive brine. The wine is elegance itself.

Comments

The brand and solera Pipiola used to belong to Manuel Garcia Monge, whose widow ran the bodega until she sold it to Sánchez Ayala in the 1980s. Then, the wine was sold as a Manzanilla Amontillada, but it is now a straight Manzanilla. Later the bodega was bought by its current owner, José Luis Barrero Jiménez. While José Luis has plans to bottle it someday, it is only sold on draught at the bodega at the moment. To relaunch it in bottle would be costly and need much promotion. At least it is being looked after with loving care for the time being, and in a bodega which is extremely close to the beach. The word "pipiola" is colloquial for someone young and inexperienced, a novice.

Price

3.65 per litre draught ex bodega

The Pipiola solera and old label

Manzanilla Gabriela Oro 15%, Sánchez Ayala

Appearance

Brassy, strawy gold with bright reflections, legs.

Nose

Full attractive and complex, amazingly fresh with lots of salty olive-briney flor, slightest hints of esparto, cinnamon and umami, verging on pasada with a trace of autolysis, an almost cider note. Generous yet controlled and finely balanced, very Manzanilla.

Palate

Lovely. Bitter flor gives way to the fresh briney not quite fruity vinous character with beautifully balanced acidity keeping it fresh and very clean, then it mellows a little before it starts to build up to the flor-filled finale with a long dry slightly bitter and very satisfying finish.

Comments

Made with grapes from the firm's own vineyard Las Cañas in the Pago Balbaina and fermented with natural yeast at the vineyard. The mosto is transported to the bodega where it enters a solera with 9 criaderas and is aged for at least 6 years.

Price

12.50 Euros