11.11.16 Consejo & Fedejerez Reject Independent Sanlúcar Consejo

Yesterday’s news that the Association of Artisan Bodegas had asked the town council of Sanlúcar to conduct a viability study on an independent Consejo was not well received in Jerez. Both the Consejo and Fedejerez emphatically rejected the idea and stressed that the Artisan bodegas are only a minority representing 25% of Manzanilla and 5% of Sherry overall, and that neither they nor the town council have the authority to set up a new Consejo.

(foto:pascual/diariojerez)

They continued that any secession would need the agreement of all the bodegas and growers of Sanlúcar and the process would have to go through official channels, not the town council. Fedejerez president, Evaristo Babé suggested that the three Artisan bodegas should leave the DO if they didn’t agree with its rules. He said that this BIB saga was unfortunate and prejudicial to Sherry’s reputation, and if it continues like this there is the possibility of expulsion from the DO. He said that the rebels should be better informed before they announce legally unviable plans and pay attention to the harm they are doing to the DO.

17.6.16 Junta Upholds BIB Appeal; Sanlúcar Gin; Yodo en Rama

The technical department of the Junta’s Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development Council has found in favour of the appeal of the artisan Manzanilla producers against the Consejo’s refusal to allow BIB. This, according to a communiqué from the Association of Artisan Manzanilla Producers, is the Junta’s response to the “unjust and unreasonable conduct of the Consejo Regulador” in denying the registration of labels and the issuing of precintas (official DO seals)as demanded by the regulations of the Denominación de Origen.

The Manzanilleros understand that with this resolution “it can only be concluded that as of today, the indirect sale (in horeca) of BIB is a perfectly legal practice which complies with the rulings of the Consejo itself.” They complained of the “continual disdain, insults and attempts to discredit them from those who seem to consider themselves, without any right, defenders of a false conservatism which has only served to continue the loss of bodegas and vineyards in the area.” They allude to the “errors” of those who during recent decades have managed to bring about the loss of “thousands of jobs” and “made Sherry one of the cheapest wines in the world”.

The association has “always” maintained that it “did not” try to market Manzanilla “outwith the rules of the game” and that time has shown that BIB did fit with the Consejo rules, and furthermore “there was market demand for it.” Once again the Association is “making a call for the dialogue which the trade needs” and that way,” break the outdated mould and open the doors to new ideas which cannot just be seen on the horizon, but are already a reality.” Finally, the association asserts that a product’s “image of quality should be in the contents, not the container.”

Luciferi is a new gin recently launched by Roberto Payá. What makes it different is the fact that many botanicals are collected in the Coto Doñana, such as wild rosemary, lavender, myrtle and lentiscus, to which he has added juniper, angelica, coriander, orange blossom, cardamom, orange peel, lime and mandarin. Sounds amazing! The name refers to the Templo de Lucero, a very early building in Sanlúcar which features in the town’s coat of arms.

Yodo en Rama is a new Fino specially created for Michelin starred Restaurante Aponiente in El Puerto. It was the last project of the greatly missed Manuel Lozano of Lustau, who selected the ideal butt with Juan Ruiz Henestrosa, sommelier of the restaurant owned by chef, Ángel León. Only 1,000 50cl bottles were filled from this first batch and Ángel León is sending a sample to all the Michelin starred restaurants in Spain to encourage them to promote Finos of this quality. Yodo translates as “iodine” an important nutrient which is found mainly in seaweed, and which of course is served in Aponiente, a converted tide mill, by the “chef del mar” (chef of the sea), Ángel León.

23.4.16 Jerez Moto GP; BIB Controversy

Jerez is bursting at the seams with bikers and motor bikes here for this weekend’s Moto GP, the 30^th to be held at the Jerez Circuito de Velocidad. It is an incredible sight and will do no harm to the city’s coffers. Of the first ten places, Spanish riders occupy seven, so the locals are all fired up as well. Ex-king Juan Carlos arrived in Jerez yesterday for the event – but not on a motor bike.

Meanwhile Carmelo Ezpeleta, director of Dorna the company which organises the World Championship, paid a visit to González Byass and was guided by the firm’s president, Mauricio González Gordon, and Pedro Rebuelta, vice president. Signing a butt Ezpeleta remarked that while Jerez has been famous forever for Sherry, it is gaining fame for the Moto GP as well. He said he was honoured to be signing a butt at González Byass alongside other butts signed by motorcycle racing legends like Ángel Nieto, Giacomo Agostini and Jorge Lorenzo.

(foto:diariojerez)

The BIB polemic is hotting up again, and today’s Diario de Jerez says that it will continue until the Junta stops looking the other way and pronounces on the question once and for all. The majority of bodegas are against BIB either for sale to the public or to the trade and thus the Consejo refuses to issue suitable precintas, while the manzanilleros feel they have the Junta’s support for sale to the trade but are forced to use precintas issued for garrafas, a practice which is not permitted.

Fernando López Gil of the Junta says it is in touch with both sides, but the interlocutor is the Consejo, and an administrative solution will take time and would be better after the Consejo elections scheduled for the middle of June. Until such time, the manzanilleros are frustrated by the Consejo’s refusal to issue precintas for containers they see as legal. Both sides wish the Junta would take decisive action.

15.2.16 Consejo Wants Technical Reasons for BIB Rejection

The Junta knows that sooner or later the majority will have its way, and the majority in Jerez is against BIB for use in horeca or otherwise as has been clearly demonstrated three times at the Consejo. But the Junta will take its time in replying to the proposal to modify the text of the regulations in support of glass as the only authorised container which vetoes BIB without even mentioning it.

The Junta has written to the Consejo asking for sound technical reasons justifying the proposal to insist on glass. Given that BIB is hygienically sound, the question of image will no doubt surface – the bad image projected by the most basic BIBs used by the Sanlúcar rebels. Once the Junta receives a reply from the Consejo, and given that it accepts the proposal, it will be made public via official bulletins thus opening a period for argument.

BIB in action (foto:diariodejerez)

Without any doubt the rebels will present theirs which the Junta will have to deal with as quickly as possible, but which could delay things indefinitely, as happened when Fedejerez presented arguments about the draft decree for elections to the Consejos Reguladores in Andalucía, delaying them for nine months. There is yet another step which the Junta has decided to take, but which the Consejo considers unnecessary. According to sources in the Junta, Brussels will be consulted on the proposal to ensure that the change of text works and that it would not interfere with EU rules. Once all these hurdles have been cleared the Junta will be disposed to give the green light to the change of text, but would prefer to postpone it till after the Consejo elections scheduled for the end of April-beginning of May.

29.11.15 BIB: History is Repeating Itself

The High Court of Andalucía supported the Consejo’s case in April 2006 when it rejected an appeal by a Sanlúcar bodega against a fine imposed by the Consejo, with the approval of the Junta’s agriculture department, for selling Manzanilla in BIB. Armed with this legal precedent, the Consejo and Fedejerez are wondering how it is that the Junta, which supported the fine at the time, does not nip the current BIB affair in the bud.

Back in 2000 Gáspar Florido, later taken over by Pedro Romero, released a Manzanilla in BIB which was the first one ever. This rang alarm bells at the Consejo who acted without delay in initiatiating proceedings, opening Pandora’s Box in the process. The result was a fine of €28,086.50 plus €1,083.50 being the value of the just over 100 BIBs. After an inspection of the premises the Consejo confiscated another 1,560 BIBs which were ready to be sold so that they could be disqualified according to the court ruling.

Tabancos must use garrafas (foto:Jose Contreras, diariodejerez)

This High Court ruling shows that the prosecution was the result of four inspections carried out by the Consejo which found a quantity of wine in five litre BIBs labelled “Manzanilla en Rama.” The BIBs had stuck to them two strips with the Consejo Seal, one a guarantee of origin and the other stating the capacity of four litres, the latter being exclusively issued for glass containers. It seems that there were one litre strips added to balance up the stocks. The bodega’s appeal was dismissed.

The High Court’s case was that the rules of the Consejo Regulador are “special rules” which prevail over more general rules. The sentence stated: “Although national and EU regulations permit the use of BIB, the DO Sherry rules state that wine can only be sold by member bodegas in containers which do not prejudice its quality or prestige and are are approved by the Consejo Regulador.  Furthermore, the court pointed out that the bodega in question, which had a seat at the Consejo, knew that BIBs had been prohibited by a majority at a plenary meeting after another bodega had brought up the matter.  And at a plenary on 20 July 2000 BIBs were banned unanimously. Florido “knew this perfectly well .”

Last September the Consejo again rejected by majority a proposal by a Manzanilla representative to authorise BIBs. Despite this rejection, the Manzanilleros – with the exceptions of La Guita, Barbadillo and Delgado Zuleta – announced their decision to market Manzanilla in the forbidden container, claiming to have the support of the agriculture department of the Junta. The latter, which has the power to pronounce on matters such as this, has signally failed to do so. The Consejo therefore issued a statement denouncing the fact that the Manzanilleros seem to be behaving with impunity because of the lack of action to resolve the matter by the Junta.

2.11.15 Evaristo Babé Explains BIB Situation

In today’s Diario de Jerez Evaristo Babé, president of Fedejerez, outlines the situation as he sees it:

"The problem, which is really an internal matter and a mere storm in a teacup if you consider the really important problems facing the Sherry business, is that a small but vociferous minority of ten bodegas in Sanlúcar is illegally using BIB to sell declassified wine – for which they have been denounced – and now they are trying to use the DO Manzanilla. The regulations for the sale of Sherry and Manzanilla state that “DO wines for public consumption shall be in a container of glass or any other material which the Consejo might specify." The BIB is neither made from glass nor approved by the Consejo, so it cannot legally be used. Like it or not those are the regulations.

Of course they could seek to change the rules, but this would have to be done through the proper channels as established in legislation. So long as nobody seeks to change the rules, those already in force must be obeyed. Anyone who does not agree with the rules can always leave the DO as there is no requirement to belong.

Beltran Domecq and Evaristo Babe

What does not fit in a democracy is flagrant breaking of the rules and the responsible public administration not acting immediately to ensure the law is observed. Public administrations are obliged to do this by checking, verifying, investigating and inspecting any activity which might be necessary. Given the importance of this matter, the need for the Junta to act is fundamental. It is not just a question of mediating between who is breaking the law and who is not, though efforts have been made to achieve a negotiated solution, but of making the former comply.

It is also worth pointing out that the illegal and churlish press conferences called by a small group of bodegas are very seriously prejudicing the trade and in particular the image of the area’s DOs. This is very serious. The ten bodegas in question read out a manifesto making them look like victims in this and advocating a sort of “civil disobedience” like separatist politicians in Cataluña, yet they only represent about 4% of the Sherry trade and 20% of the Manzanilla trade. What about the rights of the 96% and 80% who obey the law completely? Let’s be serious and show some respect please.

Another point is that the non-compliance is also affecting the business of those who are complying, though they could seek damages, and they should not have to put up any longer with unfair competition. They pay their taxes upon which many jobs most certainly depend, and they feel let down by a minority who for months have been refusing to obey the law.

We need to get things back on course as soon as possible, to calm down the lawbreakers and get them to obey the law. It is also necessary for the Junta to take action to ensure this by prosecuting those who seem proud to break the law and stopping them from doing such damage to a free market and to those who obey the law."

10.10.15 BIB Producers Seek Support from the Junta; V Most Wine Film Festival

After being refused authorisation for BIB at the last plenary of the Consejo Regulador, the Asociación de Vinateros de Sanlúcar which embraces a dozen small bodegas and which in this matter counts on the support of some Fedejerez members: Hidalgo La Gitana, La Cigarrera, Jose Luís Barrera (Sanchez Ayala) and Juan Piñero, is seeking the support of the Junta and other official bodies.

Some think they should go to the Competition authority which not so long ago imposed heavy fines on many bodegas and the Consejo for what it saw as discriminatory sales quotas, a Buyer’s Own Brand cartel and grape price fixing, but which was compelled to reduce them considerably. Most however believe that the way forward is debate and conciliation rather than more drastic measures which could have serious repercussions for Sherry as a whole.

Despite the consistent refusal of Fedejerez and the Consejo to allow what they see as fraudulent and illegal, the Manzanilleros say that it satisfies a growing demand especially from the catering sector which views it as convenient and more hygienic than re-fillable garrafas, which themselves are a target of Fedejerez. José Carlos Garrido, spokesman for the Manzanilleros, says that authorising the use of BIB does not imply the end of the bottle, but rather taking advantage of a niche in the market which could increase sales. It is not about a war between Sanlúcar and Jerez, it is about sitting down and talking with an open mind about opportunities.

The V Edition of the Most Festival, an international festival of films about wine, many not commercially released, runs 5-15 November. It takes place in the Penedés, a reference point for wine production in Cataluña, but Jerez will be strongly featured in the wonderful film El Misterio del Palo Cortado which will be accompanied by two Jerezanos: José Luís Jiménez, academic and president of the Cine Club de Jerez and Antonio Flores, chief oenologist at González Byass. If you are in the area, don’t miss this really interesting festival, and you can explore the Penedés vineyards and bodegas as well!

21.7.15 Junta Inspects BIB Bodegas; Manuel Lozano Does it Again;

The Food Quality Service of the Junta has made the first inspections at bodegas in Sanlúcar and Jerez which had been denounced by the Consejo and Fedejerez for selling wine in the illegal Bag-in-Box (BIB) format. Technical staff have taken samples of the wine in question and will analyse it at their laboratory to determine whether to proceed with administrative sanctions.

Apart from this possible infraction, the regulations state that it is illegal to fortify a wine from outside a Denominación de Origen (DO)which permits it, such as Jerez. The technical people have been checking the labelling of these products, which are forbidden to use terms protected by the DO such as Jerez, Sanlúcar, Fino, Manzanilla etc. and allusive terms such as Fina, en Rama etc. They are also checking whether the contents are stated on the packaging.

The inspections come barely a month after the Junta received complaints from the Consejo and Fedejerez about the proliferation of BIB. For their part the BIB producers have enlisted the support of the mayor of Sanlúcar and maintain that this format offers advantages of hygiene and transportability. Nonetheless, the Consejo has repeatedly refused to authorise it and it will remain illegal until they do.

Meanwhile the Junta’s Consumer Goods inspectors have launched a campaign to stop the use of BIB to refill empty Manzanilla bottles. This is also illegal but not uncommon in bars and restaurants.

Chief oenologist at Lustau, Manuel Lozano has been awarded the International Wine Challenge (IWC) title of Best Fortified Winemaker in the World for the seventh consecutive year. This has never happened before in the long history of the prestigious international competition. The grandeur of this honour contrasts with Manuel’s modesty as he considers it a “personal and professional satisfaction.”

In a press release Lustau underlined that his passion, dedication and lifetime’s experience dedicated to the wines of Jerez are reflected in the character and personality of some unique wines which won 45 medals, 10 of them Golds. The firm notes that the IWC is like the “Oscars” of the world of wine.