Wednesday, 9 November 2016

La Maquinilla – The Wine Train

Plans for a railway were first conceived in 1829 due to the need to transport growing quantities of wine to the seaports by better means than oxcarts. This was the dawn of the railway era, and it would have been the first line in Spain, yet nothing came of the plans, due mainly to difficulty in raising money. It would be 1854 before a line was constructed between Jerez and El Portal on the river Guadalete, where butts of wine used to be loaded onto boats and taken to El Puerto de Santa María for onward shipment, mostly to Britain. That same year the  line was extended to El Puerto. These were the first railway lines in Andalucía.


The train at bodegas Manuel Guerrero (foto:Jose Luis Jimenez)

The line was further extended to the Trocadero quayside at Puerto Real in 1856. Now one could travel from Jerez to Cádiz in little more than an hour via El Portal and El Puerto de Santa María to El Trocadero, from where a boat would whisk one across the bay to the capital. Stations were pretty primitive in those days, and the fairly crude structure which was Jerez station became a goods depot in 1870 when a better passenger station was built. The station of today was designed by the famous architect Aníbal González, who designed the Gallo Azul and the Exposición Iberoamericana in Sevilla in 1929. The station was completed in the early 1930s and is opposite the now abandoned offices of Díez Hermanos.



Butts of Sherry, and indeed other goods, still needed to be transported to or from the station by cart on roads in poor condition, so a plan was drawn up for an urban railway system. The council readily gave permission and work was well underway by April 1870. It is thought to be the first urban railway in Spain, and Jerezanos used to joke that people in Madrid still had to use carts. There were three locomotives which, along with their wagons needed to be on a smaller scale than normal trains to negotiate narrow streets, but they had the same gauge, allowing the wagons to be linked to the mainline train at the station. The whistle of the little train (maquinilla) could be heard for miles and clouds of smoke followed it everywhere, but it made things a great deal more efficient, even at a speed limited to 10 kph.




In those days there were more bodegas than now, and many proprietors of the larger ones paid for branch lines to go directly into them. Many of these were inevitably dead ends, but that was no problem; wagons could be left there, loaded at the bodega’s convenience, and collected later. Bodegas which had no branch lines had to load or unload quickly to avoid congesting the street.



By the 1960s the maquinilla was becoming obsolete as there were better roads and more convenient road transport in the form of trucks which could go anywhere. The trenecito (as it was also known) was taken out of service and scrapped in 1969, after 99 years of service, and is now the focus of much nostalgia.




Tuesday, 8 November 2016

8.11.16 Winner of Copa Jerez Spanish Heat

Chef Matteo Pierazzoli and sommelier Juan Luis García of the restaurant Casa Marcial in Asturias have won the Spanish heat of the prestigious VII Copa Jerez food and Sherry matching competition. They will represent Spain in the final in May next year and will compete against the Ritz in London who won the UK heat and the winners of the other heats in the USA, Belgium, Denmark, Germany, Russia and the Netherlands.



The Spanish winners produced a starter, a main dish and a dessert which consisted of tortellini of pheasant and seaweed with Amontillado Viejo Zuleta; wood pigeon in its various parts: parfait of liver with Gutiérrez Colosía Palo Cortado, barbecued breast with Sacristía AB Amontillado and stewed thigh with Hidalgo Oloroso Villapanés. Dessert was a salad of chocolate with mint ice cream and PX VORS from Bodegas Urium.

Monday, 7 November 2016

Fino La Draga 15%, Bodegas González Obregón

Appearance
Mid straw - gold with bright reflections, light legs.
Nose 
Forthcoming, quite full and interesting. There is a fruity edge with faint traces of autolysis, minerality, a trace of salinity and a yeasty, almondy bitterness. It is a bit multi-faceted: every sniff reveals something more, even the slightest hint of oxidation. Good start.
Palate
Salinity and yeasty bitterness are to the fore, it is very dry and fairly full with real character, still with that trace of fruit and a long well-rounded finish. A a good example of the Classic El Puerto style.
Comments
This characterful almacenista bodega/despacho in El Puerto has a great range of wines and this Fino is probably the best known. In fact they supply Fino, Oloroso and Amontillado for the Lustau Almacenista range. This fine Fino is about 5 years old and may well be the same wine as Lustau’s Almacenista Puerto Fino. Its name is interesting: “draga” translates as “dredger”, there being a faint picture of one on the label. The port area of El Puerto needs to be dredged now and then as a lot of silt is washed down by the river Guadalete.
Price
About 5 euros ex despacho C/Zarza


Sunday, 6 November 2016

6.11.16 Consejo Acts Quickly After BIB Ban; International Sherry Week Starts Tomorrow!

The Consejo Regulador has understood that the High Court ban on BIB has immediate effect and has therefore sent a copy of the ruling to those bodegas in Sanlúcar affected by it, advising them that no more precintas (DO labels) will be issued and asking for any unused ones to be returned. No more Manzanilla may be sold in BIB and that which has already been sold should be returned. The Association of Artisan Bodegas of Sanlúcar, those who sell BIB, say they will comment on the developments once they have analysed their full implications. Meanwhile the Consejo will be on the lookout for infractions.



Sherry lovers worldwide will be participating in all kinds of Sherry related events from tomorrow in celebration of International Sherry Week. There will be more than 1,000 events in over 26 countries making this III edition the biggest Sherry Week ever. This year there is an interactive website at http://www.sherry.wine/sherryweek where one can find out what is happening locally, and of course social media will have lots of information. Even if there is not an event nearby, you can always buy a bottle of Sherry and raise a glass to the sheer quality and versatility of this unique and marvellous wine which arouses such passion in its admirers.


Saturday, 5 November 2016

5.11.16 Bag in Box Affair Not Quite Over Yet; Wine Technology Centre

The high court of Andalucía has overruled the Junta’s decision to allow the sale of BIB’s in horeca (hotel, restaurant and catering) and suspended their sale as a cautionary measure until the full verdict is published. The Junta went against the majority view, represented by Fedejerez, and the Consejo’s own rules in permitting this contentious container (though not - officially - for sale to the public) and instructing the Consejo to issue the appropriate seals.

Fedejerez, who appealed the Junta’s decision, is delighted with the result, “an important success for the protection of the Denominación de Origen Manzanilla, which we are very proud of”. The institution which represents the bodegas feels that the Junta’s decision was arbitrary and allowed some Sanlúcar bodegas (which represent only 4% of total sales) to break the Consejo rules. It had therefore asked the court for BIBs to be suspended as they were in “flagrant breach of the rules and agreements repeatedly adopted by the plenary of the Consejo.” Not only that, but BIBs “do irreparable harm to Sherry’s prestige, reputation and perception of quality”. Fedejerez hopes that this will now put an end to the matter.




The Parque Científico Tecnológico Agroindustrial was established in 2007 near Jerez for important research by various institutions such as the University of Cádiz and businesses involved in the agricultural sector. In 2010 a Centro Tecnológico del Vino (CTV)was proposed, but lack of investment saw the project shelved and the PCTA declared itself insolvent in 2014, being currently in administration. Now the Junta de Andalucía is to invest 750,000 euros in the “rebirth” of the CTV from its 2017 budget to get it off the ground. This would be a fantastic move towards modernisation, innovation and research and development. The announcement was made at the Consejo’s bodega San Ginés by Manuel Jiménez Barrios, vice president of the Junta.

Friday, 4 November 2016

4.11.16 González Byass Release New Palmas; Chiclana’s New Wine & Salt Museum

The Palacio de las Dueñas in Sevilla, property of the Duchy of Alba, was the scene for the launch of the sixth edition of the González Byass Palmas range yesterday. The grandeur of the wines matched that of the Palacio itself as oenologist Antonio Flores and GB vice president Pedro Rebuelta led a tasting of the wines, referring to them as “the ages of Tio Pepe”.

L-R: Pedro Rebuelta, Cayetano Martinez de Irujo, Antonio Flores

Hoteliers, journalists, sommeliers, bloggers and members of Sevilla society, including Cayetano Martínez de Irujo, son of the late Duchess of Alba, were given a glass of Tio Pepe straight from the barrel on arrival. This year’s wines were selected by Antonio Flores and Gérard Basset, the first to become a master sommelier and master of wine. Each wine was introduced with poetry and flamenco guitar. The Una Palma, aged six years was selected from the three best butts of the 150 in the fourth criadera and 3,000 50cl bottles will be released. Only 1,500 bottles will be released of the Dos Palmas which is eight years old. The Tres Palmas is ten years old and 1,000 bottles will be released, while the Cuatro Palmas, a magnificent old Amontillado aged 51 years will be released in only 500 bottles.




Chiclana’s new Centro de Interpretación del Vino y la Sal was officially opened yesterday by the mayor accompanied by various dignitaries. The museum is located in an old bodega formerly belonging to Viuda Guerrero and latterly to Primitivo Collantes in Calle Concepción. The old bodega has been beautifully restored and contains a huge number of interesting historical items, all donated and extremely well displayed. It offers an amazing insight into the long history of Chiclana, its salt pans, vineyards and bodegas, and of course it’s people. Very well worth a visit.

Thursday, 3 November 2016

Bodegas: A Quijano

This bodega in El Puerto de Santa María was founded in 1840 by the montañes father of Atanasio Quijano Cieza who took over in 1865. He was blessed with great leadership qualities and was very successful in whatever he did, be it bodegas, business, politics or any other field of human relations. He was married to Concepción Rosende, whose father, an expert arrumbador, gave him the advice he needed to expand the bodega business and improve quality. They owned the 100 aranzada (47 hectare) vineyard called Las Puentes in Balbaina Alta, and there was a bodega in the calle Caldevilla.The family became prominent in the town.

Atanasio Quijano Cieza

One of the firm’s brands was Moscatel Las Cuatro Perlas, and there is a story about that. Originally, Quijano marketed this wine with the agreement of one Ramón Carlí who owned the trademark, but after his death and through various inheritances, it now belonged to one Domingo Rodríguez. There was no agreement about the use of the trademark and the latter’s complaints fell on the deaf ears of Atanasio. The matter ended up in court in 1900 with the judge finding in favour of Rodríguez.



Undaunted, Atanasio simply created and registered a new brand: Las Cinco Perlas and carried on as before, later acquiring a vineyard at Fuenterrabía which he called La Perlita. The firm continued to prosper and had good export business in Africa, Cuba and New York among other markets before tackling Spain itself. They claimed to be the first to export in bottle to America. Atanasio died in 1932 and his son, Francisco Quijano Rosende took over and grew the business as well as occupying many civic and municipal posts.




The firm lasted until the late 1950s making a wide range of products such as Ponche, Quina, and Anis as well as Brandies FQ, Admirable, Rosende and Brillante along with Sherries such as their well-known Oloroso Pata de Gallina (this 38 butt solera is now owned by the almacenista Juan García Jarana and bottled by Lustau), Manzanilla Olorosa La Perlita, Royal Cream, Amontillado Viejo 54, Solera Fina, Amontillado Fino Quijano and Old Brown Sherry. The more commercial range consisted of Golden Sherry, Vino de Pasto, Pale Sherry, Cabinet, Jubilee, Army and Navy (perhaps for the store of that name in London) and Gran Vino Tónico Cíclope. Complete with laboratory analysis on the back label.

(Thanks to Jose Luis Jimenez for content and pictures)