28.11.15 Harvesting from Knife to Machine

Carmelo García, professor of analytical chemistry and coordinator of the Master in Vitiviniculture at the University of Cádiz (UCA) gave a talk on technical innovation at the Scientific Symposium in celebration of the 80^th anniversary of the DO Sherry titled “Oenological renovation and technological innovation in Jerez over the last 80 years.

Carmelo Garcia (foto:lavozdigital)

Carmelo listed in detail the evolution of all the processes required for the elaboration of wine right from the start: the harvest. One of the key aspects and which differentiates the process now from that of centuries ago has much to do with climate change, which has caused the advancement of the harvest from September to August.

Technological change goes hand in hand with the entire production process, from harvesting with the traditional knife to the use of machines which now pick nearly 85% of the grapes. The grapes are no longer brought in in canastas (traditional baskets), and few are sunned outside. Now there are acclimatised chambers devised by UCA, where humidity and temperature are controlled and the grapes can dry in perfect conditions in half the time and with guaranteed quality.

More on Climate Change

An article by Paz Gutiérrez (EFE Cádiz) in today's Diario de Jerez

One of the unforseen – until recently - consequences of global warming is the accelerated ripening of the grape and the rise in sugar content and consequent alcohol level in the wine. This has forced producers to harvest earlier year after year, even as early as the beginning of August – over a month earlier than the historic norm.

The Centro Andaluz de Investigaciones Vitivinicolas (CAIV), a research institute linked to the University of Cádiz (UCA) and the Junta’s Economy, Innovation and Science Department, has spent three years testing on the ground for solutions to this problem which, beyond early harvest dates has devastating effects on the aroma and colour of a wine.

The more sunshine and heat the grape receives, the more it converts its acids into sugars. Over the last ten to fifteen years global warming has progressively increased the temperature by over five degrees explains Carmelo García, the CAIV director. The problem is less acute with Palomino destined to become Sherry, but it seriously affects grapes for table wines, especially red ones.

Harvested grapes (foto:diariojerez)

He says the accelerated ripening does not run parallel with the development of colour and aroma. In the young fruit the juice just smells vegetal and has not yet acquired the colour nor the aroma which characterise the wine. But if you let the phenolic ripening process take its course you will end up with a wine with 17% alcohol, something unthinkable until now, but which happened three years ago in the Rioja. It is a widespread problem affecting not only many parts of Spain, but also Italy and Portugal.

One of the solutions the CAIV is working on is de-alcoholisation equipment, a technology never before needed but which is giving good results and financed by the EU. This equipment allows you to extract the alcohol without extracting the aroma and colour. They are also working with the bodegas connected with the UCA “Interconecta” programme, bodegas such as Barbadillo, González Byass, Caballero and Manuel Aragón.

From July till September a dozen researchers are dedicated full time to the application of natural treatments to the vineyards, like providing more water or removing certain bunches from the vine, pruning leaves or supplying nutrients. As to the winemaking they are testing skin maceration, not normally used in the making of white wine, keeping the skins in contact with the must by mechanical means.

Given that every vintage is different, it is hoped that in three or four years it should be possible to see which treatment is most effective and economical, and to share the results with other Spanish or European universities who are also looking for solutions. Ideally governments would agree on how to tackle this problem, but in the meantime the search goes on.

9.8.13 Consejo Agreement with Cadiz University; Harvest; GB Buys US Distributor

An important agreement has been signed between the Consejo Regulador, The University of Cadiz (UCA) and the Andalusian Industrial Heritage Foundation (FUPIA) to collaborate in the development of training and educational activities, aimed at raising awareness of the viticultural heritage of Jerez. The agreement complements others with a similar aim, which have been developed by UCA, either through the Andalusian Centre of Viticultural Research (CAIV) or through the development of specific courses such as the degree in oenology (the only one in Andalucia,) and the Master’s Degree in Viticultural Practices in Warm Climates.

As a long-established industry, wine making in Jerez has a unique heritage which should be preserved and promoted through training, educational, touristic and investigative activities. Consejo president, Beltran Domecq, was delighted with the agreement as it covers the entire Sherry process.

(Imagen CRDO)

 The harvesting machines are being fired up already in the Gibalbin area near Arcos. Some inland vineyard areas are a week ahead of the coastal areas in terms of ripeness, and need to be picked now. If the weather stays as it is, the Sherry harvest as a whole will probably start around the 20^th, when the sugar levels should reach the required 10.5 Beaume. That said, the harvest for other types of wine is already underway. Many bodegas also make table wine, for which the grapes need to be picked earlier.

In the lagares (vineyard winemaking facilities), the “pie de cuba” (starter fermentations) are being prepared, so that when the main crop comes in it will ferment without complications. This year the weather has been much better than last year, when extended drought drastically reduced the crop. This year rainfall has been good – 650-800 litres/square metre, and the harvest yield should be normal.

(Imagen Diario Jerez)

 Gonzalez Byass has bought a distributor in the United States. Vin Divino deals with wines from Chile, Italy and Austria, to which will now be added wines from Spain. The US is the world’s largest wine market in terms of both quantity and value, and has seen a 30% increase in sales of Sherry, and is the 5^th largest importer of it. GB will also be selling its other wines from Somontano, Rioja, Castilla, Cadiz and Penedes.