Wednesday, 12 October 2016

Mirabrás 2014 14.5%, Barbadillo

Bright, fairly pale golden straw with golden highlights and very light legs.
Fresh and slightly mineral with an attractive gently tangy, finely textured Palomino fruit, hints of toasted corn, fresh apricot and ripe plum balance with a faintly saline flor bitterness which is perceptible but not as noticeable as in a Manzanilla.
Complex with beautiful poise having almost the weight of a Manzanilla yet a fresh fruity zing to counterbalance that trace of flor bitterness. There is a gentle texture, a feel to it which reminds one of albariza. It is tantalisingly close to Sherry but it isn't, and that's what makes it so interesting to drink.
This wine is excellent and a great idea being wine as it used to be. It is a table wine and therefore unfortified yet only a half degree lower in strength than a Manzanilla. It was fermented in old toneles which had previously aged Manzanilla, and flor was allowed to grow during its year and a half or so of ageing in tank. The result is a wine which is an exact half way house between Manzanilla and table wine; there are alcohol and flor elements yet it is fruity and has more acidity than a Manzanilla but with the latter's dry finish. The grapes come from the Cerro de Leyes vineyard in the firm's finca Santa Lucia and were briefly sunned. This is the first release, only 2,000 bottles I'm afraid, and the wine has a Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz denomination.
14 euros from Licores Corredera

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