This was the cleverly named title of the following article in today's Diario de Jerez
The IDEA agency of the Junta de Andalucia has published a
report into the situation of Sherry, its market and its future possibilities,
and presented it to the last plenary session of the Consejo Regulador in
January.
Alongside recommendations for opening new markets and making
Sherry more accessible to younger consumers, the report revives the debate
about the difficult co-existence of buyers’ own brands (BOB) and the bodegas’
own brands on one side, and on the other side the complexity of the plethora of
styles of Sherry.
Much has been said about the BOB business to which bodegas
have traditionally resorted to boost turnover as sales fell, but which had grave
consequences for both the price and the image of Sherry. Despite the
abandonment of BOB by one of the leading bodegas in recent years, it is BOB
which provides the vast majority of exports to the traditional markets of the
UK, Holland and Germany, at a price often of below one euro a bottle, and that
damages the bodega brands.
BOB was the main reason for the massive fine of seven
million euros imposed by the National Competition Commission on some Sherry shippers
for an alleged cartel to assure dominant positions in the export markets.
In line with the report, sources in the Sherry sector agree
that it is time the debate resurfaced, in order to avoid confusion. One
suggestion is to mark bodega brands with the words “Jerez Superior”. While the
report recommends simplification of the different styles of Sherry, this would
not be easy, and in some cases would run against the Consejo’s own Reglamento.
The report notes that another thing holding back Sherry is
the concentration on just a few markets which are not evolving and which
generally prefer one style of wine, and recommends diversifying the range on
offer. Spain drinks little else but Manzanilla; Britain little else but Cream
and Medium, for example, but some bodegas have been trying to diversify.
Other recommendations are pretty obvious, such as creating
and promoting brands; increasing public knowledge of the wines; concentrating
more on the pouring trade; working on enotourism.
To sum up, the report, rather than coming up with new ideas,
points up some questions which have never been resolved, mainly because of the
tense and confrontational atmosphere between the bodegas and the producers over
the many years of crisis. Now that there is interest again in Sherry, it is up
to them to do the right thing.
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