Bodegas: Emilio Hidalgo

Bodegas Emilio Hidalgo has a similar story to many bodegas founded in Jerez in the XIX century. The firm had its beginnings with Jose Hidalgo Frias who had set up in business in 1860 with a few acquired soleras. He was joined in 1874 by his nephew Emilio Hidalgo e Hidalgo, a businessman from Antequera (Malaga), and it was Emilio who would be the driving force of the business.

Emilio stored his wines in the bodega owned by his brother in law Raimundo Garcia Vega in the Plaza de Silos. The two men had married the sisters Ana and Josefina Lopez who owned two vineyards, Santa Ana and El Bote in the pago Carrascal. Before long the firm owned 140 hectares of vineyard in the prime areas of Anina and Carrascal. These have since been sold and the firm now buys in musts.

When Raimundo died without issue his estate passed to Emilio, who at the start of the XX century acquired the old bodegas of Molina & Cia. in the Calle Clavel from Servando Alvarez of Algeciras. This bodega in the old centre of Jerez had been owned a century before by Carlos Haurie, and serves as the Hidalgo bodega to this day. It is built in the classic bodega style with a high roof, thick walls and upper windows, specifically designed for the ageing of Sherry wine. There is a patio crammed with plants, among other things, and little if anything has changed in the last century.

By the beginning of the XX century, Don Emilio Hidalgo e Hidalgo already had a successful local business as an almacenista, and had an agent in London, and by the 1920's was developing in international markets. From 1935 the company changed its name from Emilio Hidalgo Sucesor to Raimundo Hidalgo & Cia. to Emilio Martin Hidalgo and finally in 1970 to the name we now know and respect, Emilio M Hidalgo & Cia. During those years the brothers Juan Manuel and Emilio Martin Hidalgo worked tirelessly and succeeded in exporting important quantities of wine to European markets as well as the USA and Japan.

Today the bodega remains in family hands, among them cousins Juan Manuel, Emilio and Fernando Martin Hidalgo, representing the fifth generation. Juan Manuel, an ex lawyer is involved with finance, Emilio is general manager and Fernando deals with export. After 40 years as capataz, Manuel Nieves has recently retired and been succeeded by his son Jesus. All here are dedicated to top quality “proper” Sherry. Soleras from 1860 are still running, indeed improving, and the firm's wines are a point of reference - even reverence! They take pride in the fact that they are at the forefront of quality, and  that the rest are slowly catching up. 

They have a fantastic range of serious wines. 

Fino Especial Panesa comes from a 1961 solera and takes the possible ageing of Fino under Flor to the limit – about 15 years. It is filtered only minimally to conserve its complexity. Panesa is the name of a vineyard the wine was once sourced from. An absolute cracker!

Marques de Rodil is an excellent Palo Cortado

Privilegio is a magnificent older Palo Cortado from a solera established in 1860. Only about 150 bottles are released annually.

There are two Olorosos from the same solera; Governador, taken at about 12 years old from the criaderas, and Villapanes, drawn from the solera at about 20 years old. 

Then there are the Amontillados: El Tresillo Amontillado Fino, a stunningly elegant wine taken from the criaderas at about 15 years old, and El Tresillo Amontillado Viejo, drawn from the solera (laid down in 1874) with about 50 years of age.

PX Santa Ana comes from an 1861 solera and is a huge wine, very old and complex, and only released in tiny quantities, one of the best in Jerez.

Address: C/Clavel, 29, Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz

Tel: (+34) 956 341 078

Web: www.emiliohidalgo.es

Visits? Yes, but only serious Sherry lovers and by prior appointment.