Wednesday 1 August 2012

Bodegas: Sanchez Romate Hnos.

One of the few larger bodegas to remain in family hands, Sanchez Romate was established in 1781. The founder, a restless, educated man called Juan Sanchez de la Torre was born in 1756 and came, like many bodegueros, from Ruiloba in Santander. He enjoyed the bustle of Jerez in the formative years of Sherry's success and was a noted benefactor to the city, founding various schools and institutes. He also lent money and even wine to smaller bodegas. A street is named after him. He had no children and on his death in 1838 the business passed to to those of his brother with whom he had been associated, one of whom married into the Romate family, and to their children's children. He must have been extremely successful as he is said to have left 12 million reales de vellon in his will.

In 1887 the fourth generation of the family introduced a new product, brandy. It had been intended for the use of  family and friends, but was so good they decided to market it. They chose the name Cardenal Mendoza after a XV century cardinal who helped Columbus, and the brandy has been very successful ever since, providing a worthwhile income while sales of Sherry are depressed. In 1909 the firm was appointed official supplier of Sherry to the House of Lords, and in 1917 to the Vatican. One of the bodegas contained three enormous toneles, each with a capacity of 20,000 litres, named after the three sons of Noah: Sem, Cam and Jafet. These were used for making large quantity blends and were later substituted by tiled cement vats.

Facade in C/Lealas showing fungus from brandy ageing
The company owns about 100 hectares of albariza vineyard, the Viña Soledad in the pago Balbaina for the production of Finos and a little parcel of PX, and the Viña Santa Genoveva in the pago Carrascal mainly used for Olorosos and Palos cortados. They buy in Moscatel from Chipiona. When Fernando de Castilla bought the soloeras of Jose Bustamante, Romate bought the bodega next door and also that of the old firm of Wisdom and Warter (though not the soleras which went to Gonzalez Byass). The Romate bodegas, built mostly in 1820, have an interesting device to maintain the necessary 70% humidity. Instead of simply spraying water from a hose, they have a high pressure mist spray system on the walls. It is efficient and economical with water.

Now in its 10th generation, Romate exports to over 40 countries, and produces much BOB (buyer's own brand) Sherry. One prominent client is the Wine Society. Some of the firm's bottlings have magnificent old fashioned labels of  Victorian ladies, for example their Manzanilla "Viva la Pepa" and the 8 year old Fino Perdido from the 85 butt Celestino solera (a different solera to Marismeño). The firm also contract bottles wine for Cayetano del Pino and Fernando de Castilla, as well as supplying occasional almacenista wines for Viniberia.

The range consists of: Brandy, Vinegar, table wine from Rueda and Ribera del Duero, and Sherry:

Old and Plus:
Amontillado, Oloroso and PX from 200 year old soleras once kept back for family use. They are sold in 50cl decanters and are well over 30 years old and easily VORS, but the firm does not believe in this system.
Other special wines:
Fino Perdido, Amontillado Olvidado, Oloroso Encontrado.
Special Reserve:
Fino Marismeno, and the following are all 15 years old: NPU Amontillado; Palo Cortado Regente; Oloroso Don Jose; Iberia Cream; PX Duquesa; PX Cardenal Cisneros; Moscatel Ambrosia
Romate:
Fino; Medium Amontillado; Dry Oloroso; Cream; PX. Also Manzanilla Viva La Pepa (once Fernando A de Terry)
Brandy:
Romate, Cardenal Mendoza, cardenal Mendoza Lujo, Cardenal Mendoza Carta Real, Cardenal Mendoza NPU, Uno en Mil (static aged single cask brandy)
Liqueur:
Angelus - based on brandy with bitter orange, lemon, cardamom and clove
Rum:
Ingenio Manacas (own solera in Jerez)
 
Officially they don't offer visits, but might be persuaded...
Address:  C/ Lealas, 26-30, 11404 Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz
Tel:  (+34) 956 182 212
Web:  www.romate.com

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