History of Jerez - the XIX Century

The XIX Century began during the Napoleonic Wars. Spain's alliance with France against England collapsed after their defeat at Trafalgar. Napoleon decided to occupy Spain, and the government fled Madrid. On St. Joseph's day 1812, they introduced the famous liberal constitution in Cadiz, known ever since as "La Pepa", but it was not to last. With the restoration of Fernando VII La Pepa was derogated. The absolutist wishes of the king led to the eventual loss of the American colonies, and what with the devastation of war wreaked on Andalucia, marauding soldiers stealing wine, and French ships disrupting exports, Spain was in a bad way.

In Jerez some of the Sherry old guard had died, and some new names were appearing such as Gonzalez, Pemartin, Barbadillo, Burdon, Argueso. Business began to grow again, and with it the local economy; more coopers were needed, and metalworkers, builders, port facilities, transport. In Britain new importers were being established; for example Avery's, John Harvey. Some were also dealing in Port, but Sherry was the more important wine. At the start of the century, 8,000 butts had been exported, but by the mid 1870's over 68,000 butts were being exported. After a dreadful start to the century, things were going very successfully; every British home had a bottle of Sherry.

In 1855, however, things changed. Oidium, a parasitic fungus attacked the vines. Sulphur proved successful in defeating this enemy, but it was at least 5 years before the vines were back in full production, and prices had shot up. Then, another attack came. This time an insect called the Pulgon in 1867. These disasters happened at a time when sales had never been so good, and to supply the demand, wines were brought in from neighbouring areas Lebrija, Trebujena and Chiclana - and even Huelva. Less reputable merchants began exporting concocted wines, which combined with overproduction, led to a trend away from Sherry.

In the 1850's a railway was built to Puerto de Santa Maria, and at much the same time Oidium hit France, giving Sherry a lifeline. As the 1870's reached the height of Sherry production, two innovations arrived. Firstly bodega bottling of the wines under the Bodega (not the merchant) label, and secondly the production of Jerez brandy. In an attempt to improve Sherry's reputation, Pedro Domecq wrote to his fellow bodegueros suggesting they get to grips with the issue of quality, and eventually the Association of Sherry Exporters was established in 1910.

Jerez was beset by enough problems, but in 1894 came another disaster. Phylloxera is an aphid which destroys vines, and did exactly that, but as it had already attacked France and Malaga, the cure was known, and accordingly all vines were replaced by vines grafted onto resistant American rootstocks. The mayor of Jerez played a leading role in financing replantation, assisted by the wealthier Sherry merchants, but it was realised that things needed to be modernised. Luckily the soleras were amply stocked with wine to see Jerez through the period of replanting.