Friday, 17 June 2016

17.6.16 Junta Upholds BIB Appeal; Sanlúcar Gin; Yodo en Rama

The technical department of the Junta’s Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development Council has found in favour of the appeal of the artisan Manzanilla producers against the Consejo’s refusal to allow BIB. This, according to a communiqué from the Association of Artisan Manzanilla Producers, is the Junta’s response to the “unjust and unreasonable conduct of the Consejo Regulador” in denying the registration of labels and the issuing of precintas (official DO seals)as demanded by the regulations of the Denominación de Origen.

The Manzanilleros understand that with this resolution “it can only be concluded that as of today, the indirect sale (in horeca) of BIB is a perfectly legal practice which complies with the rulings of the Consejo itself.” They complained of the “continual disdain, insults and attempts to discredit them from those who seem to consider themselves, without any right, defenders of a false conservatism which has only served to continue the loss of bodegas and vineyards in the area.” They allude to the “errors” of those who during recent decades have managed to bring about the loss of “thousands of jobs” and “made Sherry one of the cheapest wines in the world”.



The association has “always” maintained that it “did not” try to market Manzanilla “outwith the rules of the game” and that time has shown that BIB did fit with the Consejo rules, and furthermore “there was market demand for it.” Once again the Association is “making a call for the dialogue which the trade needs” and that way,” break the outdated mould and open the doors to new ideas which cannot just be seen on the horizon, but are already a reality.” Finally, the association asserts that a product’s “image of quality should be in the contents, not the container.”

Luciferi is a new gin recently launched by Roberto Payá. What makes it different is the fact that many botanicals are collected in the Coto Doñana, such as wild rosemary, lavender, myrtle and lentiscus, to which he has added juniper, angelica, coriander, orange blossom, cardamom, orange peel, lime and mandarin. Sounds amazing! The name refers to the Templo de Lucero, a very early building in Sanlúcar which features in the town’s coat of arms.


Yodo en Rama is a new Fino specially created for Michelin starred Restaurante Aponiente in El Puerto. It was the last project of the greatly missed Manuel Lozano of Lustau, who selected the ideal butt with Juan Ruiz Henestrosa, sommelier of the restaurant owned by chef, Ángel León. Only 1,000 50cl bottles were filled from this first batch and Ángel León is sending a sample to all the Michelin starred restaurants in Spain to encourage them to promote Finos of this quality. Yodo translates as “iodine” an important nutrient which is found mainly in seaweed, and which of course is served in Aponiente, a converted tide mill, by the “chef del mar” (chef of the sea), Ángel León.




Thursday, 16 June 2016

16.6.16 Unusual Sherries Music Competition; Babé Re-elected

The association of traders in the centre of Jerez and bodegas Sánchez Romate have got together to organise a competition to find young musical stars. “Unusual Sherries Music” is open to soloists or groups in any style of music who wish to find their way in the world of music, and inscriptions are open till the 27th June. Performances will take place in the streets of Jerez from the 1st July and the winner will get a professional video recording of a 30 minute show in the Sánchez Romate bodegas. The runner up will get a diploma and a selection of the bodega’s products.





Evaristo Babé Romero has been re-elected as president of the Consejo Regulador Brandy de Jerez, a post he has held since the outset of the Denominación de Origen in 1987 and which has 27 member bodegas. Also re-elected was the vice president, Francisco Javier Requejo of Sánchez Romate. Both men were re-elected unanimously. Let us hope that they, along with the very smart new website http://www.brandydejerez.es/ can revive the fortunes of this superb product.





Wednesday, 15 June 2016

15.6.16 Sherry and Cork; MW Exam Sherry, Decanter Awards

On Monday a meeting took place at the Consejo’s Bodega San Ginés between the Jerez cork stopper producer Torrent Miranda, APOM (the association of sustainable forest owners) and representatives of the leading bodegas. Titled “Sustainability and Excellence in the Wines of Jerez”, the meeting was organised by the PEFC (the Spanish association for forest sustainability which certifies cork – as well as wood for barrels and wood derivatives), the Consejo and Torrent Miranda.



The latter’s managing director, Alfonso de la Calle pointed out that 71% of seals are cork because it is the best seal, not only for its suitability for the job, but for its ecological and environmental value, and that certified cork is much in demand for premium products. Ana Belén Noriega, PEFC general director praised the efforts of Andalusian producers who have 64,600 hectares of sustainable forest, 35,000 of those in Cádiz. Referring to its ecological value, she said that the production of one cork absorbed 234 grams of CO2 and that the bodegas should choose PEFC certified cork as a part of their drive for sustainability, especially locally produced cork.

The Institute of Masters of Wine examinations took place recently, and the chosen Sherry in the tasting papers, which consist of 36 wines over 3 papers was Cayetano del Pino’s Palo Cortado Solera. This is an excellent Sherry and a classic Palo Cortado, so let's hope they got it right!


Respected wine magazine Decanter has published the results of its Decanter World Wine Awards. Listed below are the top scoring Sherries. I have stuck to Best in Show, Platinum and Gold awards because of the number of wines involved. A total of 98 Sherries won Commended, Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum and best in Show. A huge panel of judges included Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers.

Best in Show
Fino Tres Palmas, González Byass

Platinum
Oloroso VORS, Lustau
Palo Cortado VORS, Lustau
Pedro Ximénez VORS, Lustau

Gold
Oloroso Añada 1986 Hidalgo La Gitana
Faraón Oloroso VORS, Hidalgo la Gitana
Pedro Ximénez Triana VORS, Hidalgo La Gitana
Wellington Palo Cortado VORS, Hidalgo La Gitana
Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, Hidalgo La Gitana
Amontillado Cuatro Palmas, González Byass
Amontillado del Duque VORS, González Byass
Fino Dos Palmas, González Byass
Leonor Palo Cortado, González Byass
Matúsalem Cream VORS, González Byass
Noé Pedro Ximénez, González Byass
Palo Cortado Añada 1987, González Byass
Fino Inocente, Valdespino






Tuesday, 14 June 2016

Fino Arroyuelo en rama 15%, Primitivo Collantes

Appearance
Mid strawy brassy gold, some legs.
Nose
Fairly serious, slightly savoury flor at first with a slight trace of buttery autolysis, notes of dry scrub, a little salinity and quite bready with an olive brine touch and traces of dried green herbs, there's some character here.
Palate
Quite full with a fairly intense entry, lots of bitter and briny flor and that slight pasada note coming from the dead yeast cells at the bottom of the butt and a trace of oxidation. Moderate acidity, very dry but very good length with a very slightly tangy savoury even lively farewell.
Comments
Aged under flor for an average of five years, this Fino was bottled on 23rd October 2015 with no clarification at all. Judging from the hand-written panel on the back label it is a blend of wines selected from butts nos. 16, 32, 96 and 117 of the Fino Arroyuelo solera. Being from Chiclana which is in the production zone but not the ageing zone, the wine cannot carry the DO Sherry seal, but is very much the equal. It is sealed with what looks like a 2 inch driven Amorim Twin Top cork. It scored 90 points from Parker - the wine that is. It just shows the difference between a wine bottled from selected butts without filtration and a wine from the same solera bottled from all of the butts and filtered. The standard Arroyuelo is excellent (see post) but this has so much more depth and character. I could drink it all night....
Price
15 euros per 75cl bottle from Cuatrogatos

Monday, 13 June 2016

13.6.16 Sherry in Shakespeare’s Day

Sherry was hugely popular in Shakespeare’s time and nobody gave it more passionate promotion. In the year in which we celebrate the 400th anniversary of his death, Williams & Humbert are offering another lecture in the Ciclo de Conferencias series entitled Sherry in Shakespeare’s Times. It will be given by José Luís Jiménez, an expert on the subject and member of the Real Academia de San Dionisio, who was the prime mover in erecting a memorial to the bard in Jerez. Williams & Humbert have two excellent brands of Sherry named after Shakespeare plays: A Winter’s Tale and As You Like It, and was of course founded by two Englishmen. The event is free and takes place at the bodega.


13.6.16 Sherry Festival UK



Over 50 wine merchants all over the UK are participating from today till the 26th in a Sherry Festival. There will be tastings and promotions galore and the chance to try something really interesting, so don’t delay, check out the link below to find your nearest event where there is a really useful interactive map.

Sunday, 12 June 2016

Bodegas: Gran Mariscal Siglo XVIII SL

When the Marqués de Villapanés ordered the construction of his Palacio de Villapanés in the barrio San Miguel in central Jerez in the 1760s he built various outbuildings close by such as stables. One of those outbuildings, which now forms part of the Calle Cazón, 50 metres from the Palacio, is a lovely vaulted space which was converted into a very attractive if unusual bodega at the beginning of the XX century.


 It has an excellent microclimate for the production of good Sherry and has a pretty patio. For many years it was run by the almacenista Juan Vega Pérez. In 1998 it was bought from him in a very poor state by Antonio Mariscal Domínguez who brought 28 years of experience at Rumasa’s Bodegas Internacionales and who continued to run the bodega in an artisan way. After sorting out the bodega and its 670 butts, he started off selling Manzanilla – the controversial “El 69” - then the other styles as well, both in bulk and in bottle. There was a separate bottling plant. While Antonio had his own brands it was rare to see them in shops.



In 2001 the firm suffered a huge organised fraud to the tune of 18,000 bottles with a value of around € 72,000. Luckily the Civil Guard caught the offenders and Antonio survived. But not for very long. As the crisis hit, Gran Mariscal was one of those which did not survive. The firm was still going in 2007 but the doors are now closed and sadly there seems to have been no activity in recent years.


Products:
Amontillado “Muy Viejo,” PX “Borboreo” (the gypsy Word for Jerez) and Oloroso Viejísimo “Monte Alto”
They also produced 4 brandies (Reliquia 1784, Solera 1942, Gran Mariscal and Borboreo) and a vinegar from a 40 year old, 65 butt solera called Sueño Andaluz.

Address: Calle Cazón, 9, 11402 Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz